Battery Bank & Backup Time
How many batteries, at what capacity, and how long the bank will really last — with the C10 rating, depth of discharge and inverter losses all taken off the top, which is where most backup estimates go wrong.
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Battery Bank & Backup Time · C10 rating · Peukert derating · EnergyCalcHQ · energycalchq.com
Preliminary calculation. The figures behind it are representative values for the stated conditions, not a substitute for the current edition of the standard or the manufacturer's published data. Verify before issuing for construction. Not a substitute for a qualified engineer or a protection study.
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The arithmetic everyone does
Ah = Load (W) × Hours / System voltageA 1500 W load for 4 hours on a 48 V bank: 6000 Wh ÷ 48 V = 125 Ah. So one 150 Ah battery string will do it. It will not. That figure is off by more than a factor of two, and every term you left out makes it worse.
Four things that eat the capacity
- Depth of discharge. A lead-acid battery taken to flat repeatedly will not last a year. Tubular batteries are designed around roughly 60 % discharge for reasonable cycle life; VRLA around 50 %. Only about half the nameplate is yours to use.
- The C10 rating. This is the one nobody accounts for. An Indian tubular battery marked 150 Ah is rated at the C10 rate — 15 A for ten hours. Discharge it in two hours instead and the plates cannot keep up: you get roughly 82 % of the nameplate. In one hour, about 70 %. Short backups at high current are punished hardest, which is exactly the case people size for.
- Inverter efficiency. 90 % is typical, and it is a loss on everything you draw.
- Battery round-trip efficiency. Another 15 % gone in lead-acid, about 4 % in lithium.
Put them together and the honest equation is:
Ah = (W × h) / (V × η_inverter × η_battery × DoD × k_rate)For that same 1500 W for 4 hours on tubular cells: 6000 Wh becomes about 7800 Wh at the DC bus, which at 60 % DoD and a 0.9 rate factor needs roughly 300 Ah at 48 V. Two and a half times the naive answer, and the whole gap is in terms most calculators leave out.
Series and parallel
Series adds voltage, parallel adds capacity. A 48 V bank is four 12 V blocks in series; wanting 300 Ah at 48 V means two such strings side by side, eight blocks in total.
Prefer fewer, larger strings. Parallel lead-acid strings never share current perfectly, the weakest string is worked hardest, and it degrades faster — which makes the sharing worse. Three parallel strings is the practical limit; beyond that, move to a higher system voltage instead.
Higher voltage helps twice over: at 1500 W a 12 V bank pulls 140 A through the cabling, while a 48 V bank pulls 35 A. Same power, a quarter of the current, a sixteenth of the cable loss.
Is lithium worth it?
| Tubular lead-acid | LiFePO₄ | |
|---|---|---|
| Usable fraction | ~60 % | ~85 % |
| Held at high discharge rate | Poor | Nearly all of it |
| Cycles to 80 % | 800–1500 | 3000–6000 |
| Cost per usable kWh, upfront | Lower | 2–3× higher |
| Maintenance | Topping up, ventilation | None |
The nameplate comparison flatters lead-acid and the usable comparison does not: a 100 Ah lithium block genuinely replaces a 150 Ah tubular one. On daily cycling — solar self-consumption, a shop that runs on backup every evening — lithium usually wins over the life of the installation. For a bank that sits float-charged and is called on twice a month, tubular is still hard to beat on price.
Do not forget the charger
Lead-acid wants a charge current around C/10 — a 300 Ah bank needs a 30 A charger, and it will need ten hours or more to recover. If your outage pattern does not leave that much charging time between events, the bank never reaches full charge, sulphates, and dies early. In areas with long daily cuts this, not the sizing, is what kills batteries.
Temperature matters too. Capacity falls roughly 1 % per °C below 25 °C, and at 40 °C the battery delivers slightly more but ages far faster. A battery box in direct sun is a bank you will replace early.